Japan | Tokyo (Days 13 - 15)

Day 2

We started the day with a wonderful and informative Tokyo Localized walking tour focusing on the areas around Akihabara – the buzzing electric hub of the city’s anime scene. The route gave us an interesting contrast of modern day cultural context and history – we also walked through the Yushima Seido Confucian temple tucked away behind unassuming streets, and the Kanda Myojin Shinto Shrine, which was just off the main district road. Stepping into it felt a little like passing into a different realm, and our guide shared that students tended to visit this shrine to pray for good luck and prosperity ahead of their exams. 

By the time the tour wrapped up in lovely Ueno Park, the skies had opened and the rain was absolutely pouring down. We attempted to walk to a nearby sushi spot, but there was already a line with three groups ahead of us. Desperate to escape the weather, we pivoted to another sushi place right across the street — and lucked out with a nice meal and a chance to dry off. 

My next stop was the Yayoi Kusama Museum. I love Kusama’s art and I was excited that I’d been able to book tickets just a day ahead of time – however, with its rotating exhibitions, the art inside changed quite a lot and I felt the pieces on display were a little lackluster. Still, it was a pleasant way to spend an hour in the rainy afternoon.

Afterwards, I headed to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, hoping to catch the view from the observation deck. Expectations were low, given the persistent clouds, but it turned out to be a peaceful break. I wandered around taking photos through the misty glass and warmed up with a cup of green tea. On a clear day, I could see how this would be a fantastic (and free!) spot to take in the scope of this massive city.

By the time I came down, office workers were heading home, and the rain had gotten even worse. My beloved blue umbrella of 11+ years finally gave out, with two spokes bent completely backwards from the wind. I ducked under an awning, hoping the storm might ease up, but after watching everyone else grit their teeth and plunge into the driving wind and rain, I finally followed close on the heels of a couple people, trailing them as they dashed to the next place of shelter. And I’m glad I did. What I thought would be a very wet 10-minute walk from where I was to Shinjuku Station ended up taking me through a completely covered underpass beneath the city streets that led me directly to the train I needed. The same trick worked again when I got off the train near our hotel. Instead of the suggested exit, I was able to follow signs for the attached mall and found a second underpass that took me all the way back to the hotel without needing to step back into the rain. I was both quite pleased with this discovery that allowed me to stay dry the whole way back and in slight disbelief at the network of subterranean tunnels that clearly exists across the city for commuters.  

With the downpour still at it, we had dinner that evening in the mall attached to our hotel – at a restaurant serving grilled pork over rice. Once we stepped up and saw it was filled entirely with locals, we knew we were in for a good meal – and it absolutely delivered. 

Day 3 

After yesterday, waking up to beautiful sunny skies was the best possible surprise. We started our day at the Tokyo Imperial Palace, but found ourselves a little turned around — the place is massive, and the paths didn’t connect quite the way I expected. I’d hoped to get a shot of the palace against the city skyline, but couldn’t even find the right path 

No matter — I had a walking tour to catch in Shibuya! Or. so I thought. Turns out that I accidentally booked it for the day I would be leaving. But since I was already there, and the weather was stunning, I decided to craft my own walking tour on the fly. 

First stop: Shibuya’s Scramble Crossing. After seeing it in so many photos and videos, it was a little surreal to be there in person. I zig-zagged across it a few times with my camera up, trying to capture the organized chaos.

Next was Yoyogi Park, which was absolutely packed with locals picnicking and basking in the sun and amongst the trees. I lingered there for a while, people-watching to rest my feet.  

Then: the massive Meiji Jingu Shrine, which was dedicated to Emperor Meiji and his family. After the chaos of Shibuya, the walk through the Torii gates and into the peaceful forested path really felt like I was leaving the city behind. The tall trees completely swallowed the sound of the cars, and I followed the path into the shrine itself, where a monk was singing and playing a traditional instrument in the courtyard for a large audience. 

After the shrine, I attempted to explore Harajuku nearby, but one look at the shoulder-to-shoulder crowds packing the main street sent me right back out again. I called it quits and headed back to the hotel instead. 

Dinner that night was a much-anticipated Kaiseki meal — a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu — at a tiny spot in Ebisu with just six seats. The chef didn’t speak much English but was warm and generous, carefully explaining each beautifully presented dish. It was especially entertaining to watch him and his sous chef work together to put together the components of each plate.

We sat beside a local couple, who were trying the place for the first time too. At one point, the chef brought out a small tank of mackerel still swimming — not part of our meal, but quite clearly headed for our dining mates’ dishes. The woman beside us exclaimed, “They’re so cute! They’re looking at me with their eyes!” Then, when one appeared on her plate, she looked apologetic and said, “Sorry, fish!” before digging in. We chatted a bit about travel, and when we told them it was our last night in Tokyo, the woman insisted on buying us plum wine sodas as a farewell gesture. Incredibly kind, and the perfect cap to an unforgettable dinner 

Afterwards, I set out to finally get some night shots of the city. I started at the Magnet viewpoint over Shibuya to get an aerial view of the Scramble Crossing before heading to Shinjuku. Without much direction, I wove through the crowds and streets, following the neon lights and keeping my eyes peeled for interesting shots. Nightlife was in full swing, and revelers were weaving in and out of bars, restaurants and clubs. I wandered for around an hour before finally weaving my way back to the train station to head out. If I ever get the chance to return to Tokyo, I hope I’ll be able to explore even more after dark – the vibrant atmosphere and the glow was pretty intoxicating.  

Day 4 

The final day before our flight  began with a tea tasting. I loved the floral black tea, was intrigued by the nutty, savory notes of the brown rice tea, and gained a newfound respect for matcha whisking. Our host made it look so easy, but once we tried ourselves, we all realized just how fast and precise she’d been. It was like trying to hand-whisk a latte — I thought I was doing okay, then after taking a peek at how light and frothy hers looked after just a minute, suddenly I started whisking like a human blender.

After stocking up on souvenirs and managing to squeeze my groaning suitcase closed, I boarded an airport bus and headed, mournfully, for Haneda Airport. While waiting for my flight, I spent the very last of my yen coins on six gyoza, one final milk tea from a vending machine, and – much to the amusement of the chef at the counter – one (1) singular salmon sushi. No surprise, it was delicious. 

Honestly and truly – what a trip. Japan lived up to everything I hoped it would be and more – and I can only hope that I’m able to return someday. We encountered such beauty, stunning sights, warmth and kindness, food that I’ll be daydreaming about for a very long time, and memories that I’m glad I captured through writing these posts. I miss it all already, and know that I barely scratched the surface of what there is to discover. I left with full heart, tired feet, and an even longer list of places to see next time.